I can reset the trips, and the unit will run a few times, but eventually will lock itself out again. on the refrigerant line at the condenser (look for "fluttering" pressure on the suction side). This time, it didn't even reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors all day long. Within 4 seconds the gas Burner fires-up BUT safety shutdown from the Ignition Control Block. 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Yes, we have lots of other things going on in the house, such as: Server room 20 amp/240 volt overflow bathtub - used about 1 hour each day 2HP well pump Well pump controller Sub-zero refrigerator Mini fridge upstairs Exterior lights (about 40 lights altogether, LEDs), left on overnight for security Water softener Desktop computer on 8 hours during workdays Our water heater is run off propane, FYI. Close. In November, we started using the heat and it seemed to work fine. 4SHP14/15 SPLIT SYSTEM HEAT PUMP (R410A REFRIGERANT) (P) 506762-03 Manufactured By *P506762-03* Allied Air Enterprises LLC A Lennox International, Inc. Company 215 Metropolitan Drive West Columbia, SC 29170 This manual must be left with the homeowner for future reference. Traditionally, in-floor radiant heat (electric mats) will DOUBLE or even TRIPLE the cost of tile install. Your feet will be well taken care of, your shoulders will be the part that will have issues with the lack of heat. Is Radiant Heating or Cooling Right for You? That was a problem with tile, the foam is soft enough that the grout kept breaking. As an example, Trane includes a pressure curve chart with many heat pump condensing units. Good luck. Close to max. You might need a new electrical box. The other point is to check out the thermostat instructions. 226 (Furnace) The furnace high pressure … If you wanna use your existing thermostat, it's dead simple to add an outdoor lockout stat. I would use a forced air system (Hydracoil) in conjunction with my high efficiency boiler. And that gets EXPENSIVE very, very, very quickly. Our Rheem heat-pump is on the fritz. As a rough guide to the pressure ranges that occur with the various refrigerants, consider the pressures at a condensing temperature of 60°C. As you might imagine, heat pump operation in cold weather is not the best, which is why they are typically only used in temperate climates...think beaches, palm trees, and oranges. An install this big usually works best with hydronic (water/gel/oil). Not sure what else to check. A restriction in your refrigeration cycle like a bad TXV (thermostatic expansion valve) or a stopped up orifice can also cause high-pressure problems. In heat mode, the indoor coil becomes the condenser and that is where the high pressure (gas to liquid) exists.The heat pump mostly runs but when there is a huge heat differential or temp go below 35 the propane gas heat turns on. Good luck. Ditra has produced a heating mat that is more expensive (than the usual electric heating wires). Any filters in system in ceiling return or wall grills? Low Pressure Lockout (4 HRS) High Pressure Lockout (4 HRS) Time Delays The unit time delays include:--Five minute time delay to start cooling operation when there is a call from the thermostat or wall Control. In the service screen, it will show the actual system pressures while running and static pressure. With power off you can test that HPCO with a meter. In heat mode, a dirty air filter causes low airflow across the condenser. I'll give it a week and see if the problem comes back I'll call a pro. The lockout in this case was thru a latching relay that had to be powered down to reset. That's a must as they use communicating controls. I would worry about it not keeping up with harsh cold and if you loose power, freezing of water lines. I checked my coils outside and they were very clean, I changed all my filters which weren't too bad and re-set my system. I also like the wood heat idea...new High Efficiency wood burning fireplaces when you are there.... whats a cottage without a fire? But when we go the first bill, it was for 4,949 kWh or $525.18. There are multiple possibilities but they are easily worked through if one know's what they are doing. Thanks for helping. That's all I know/understand about that. Were you running heating or cooling when it tripped? Close to max. BUT in the coil manual they say put the coil downstream of air handler... exactly opposite. Heat pump running constantly. It's an upflow. It works only if the groung loop flow is throttling. Do you have any problems in cool mode? ... With this extreme cold, however, I've hit a problem. That will tell you if the switch is Bad or Doing its job as designed! I think any good electrician can do it, as long as they are open to learning, it is a simple system. It does not work well being turned on and off as it is designed to be constant(when your not there it would need to be near the same temp as when you are). uses 20/16/13 kWh, assuming the different fan speeds (our fan speed is NOT variable speed, left on high). The heat pump/defrost control will attempt to start unit after the anti-short cycle time expires, when a high or low pressure control automatically resets, or when the heat pump/defrost control exits the lockout mode as the temperature rises above 5°F. If you budget $500 - $1000 PER MAT and then multiply that by how many mats you need (you could need 5-10 mats for your size of install) you have a STRONG understanding as to how much this will cost for materials. I'm not sure if the heat was functioning correctly at all but the tech that came and serviced the geothermal unit prior to us closing on the house said that everything was functioning normally (after repairing the AC part by turning the water up).
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